Three Days in Paris

 


Tuesday 3/27/01 to Thursday 3/29/01

Charlie Acker

We left Heusweiler on a cold Tuesday Morning, on the way to meet the train to Paris. It was one of the first clear days we have seen since our arrival here. The school children were in route to their schools as we departed. We took a bus that connected with a trolley that took us to the train station in Saarbrucken.
After having coffee at the train station, we boarded the train for the four-hour ride to Paris. Finding our reserved compartment completely our own, we could relax, five of us in the space of eight seats. The train seemed modern, well run and uncrowded. The ride was as smooth as I could imagine it being.

Just outside Saarbrucken, we passed the French border. One could immediately see the differences as we entered France. Everything seemed not as well ordered as in Germany. The city landscape quickly gave way to the country setting. Before long we were traversing open countryside with little villages and farm lands, noticeably soggy from a long rainy season. The sun was bright, with a few clouds, the grass was very green, rolling hills, farm buildings, and some industrial areas could be seen along the way.

Many areas were experiencing flooding. As we neared Paris, farms were inundated with flowing waters. It seemed the train track was one of the few areas above water at times. We approached Paris through an industrial area typical around most train stations.

We quickly mastered the Paris Metro system that seems to be user friendly, efficient and universally used. After a short ride we arrived at our stop and walked a few blocks to the "Hotel Bellevue" where we were greeted graciously, in English, and given our room keys. Our "belle-view" was of a plastered wall across an inner courtyard. We were on the fourth floor of a five-story building, probably well over a hundred years old.

After settling our sparse luggage, we ventured out, entering the Metro again, bound for Basilique Sacre Coeur, built on a hill overlooking much of Paris. We thought we'd start by seeing this important church with a great overview of the city. The weather was cool with bright sunshine between clouds. We emerged from the Metro at the foot of a narrow street leading up the hill to Sacre Coeur. The cobble stone Rue de Steinkerque was lined with little tourist shops and a parade of many people were making their way up the hill. There seemed to be as many Parisians as tourists and groups of school children could be seen moving about en masse. The steps up to Sacre Coeur are divided into terraces, with benches, view areas and many fountains. As we reached the upper terraces, Congo drums could be heard and a large crowd sat on the steps enjoying the street musicians. Compared to most tourist destinations, the locals were as much a part of the scene as the tourists. Old people were out and about along with mothers with children, young lovers and groups of student travelers in various groups from all over the world.

At the door of the Basilica were reminded that it is a Catholic Church and that proper reverence was expected. Inside the majesty and immensity of the high arches, vaulted ceilings, mosaics, sculptures and stained glass was awe-inspiring. There was a profound atmosphere within the space. Spiritual, religious, devotional might be the words to describe the ambiance. We walked around the tour isles marveling at the space before emerging back out into the sunlit afternoon. It was crowded, but not overwhelmingly so.

Back down at the street level, we found some "pomme frits" for a quick snack and the girls spent some time shopping for cards and trinkets. My time was spent window-shopping and people watching. An amazing cross section of humanity was parading before me.

For our dinner, we found Au Jardin des Pates on rue Lacepede, featuring organic gourmet pastas with vegetable sauces. The food was quite good. As we left, it began to pour rain. We did our best to put up our hoods and huddle under our two small umbrellas as we walked to the Metro. It was cold and dark by then as well and the majority vote was to return to the hotel. Holly's one vote was to go to the Champs-Elysée and see the Arc de Triopmhe. This was compelling enough to convince us all to forget the rain and see Paris while we had the chance. So, we descended into the Metro and took the ride, emerging at the Place de Concorde, finding a giant brightly-lighted Ferris wheel and that the rain had stopped!

Crossing the street in Paris is not for sissies. Even if you have the light, Parisian drivers use their brakes sparingly. Pedestrians are not considered to have the right of way as is our American custom and law. We survived another wide-avenue crossing and stopped to visit the Obelisque, which Serena particularly needed to photograph for a school report. From there we began a long walk along the Champs-Elysee. As we got further along, the crowds thickened, the elite stores and restaurants were more in evidence and the street atmosphere became vibrant. Every human condition from poverty to wealth and high fashion was in abundance. Young and old, tourists, street sellers and swindlers, were all about en masse.

We finally reached l'Arc de Triopmhe, took pictures, then happily retreated underground again to board the Métro to be whisked back to our stop at Etienne Marcel near our hotel. We collapsed in our rooms, exhausted at near midnight. Breakfast at the Hotel Bellevue was typical: croissant, roll, coffee, butter, jam, and voila! The matron looked at our girls sternly, but with a hidden smile. My French is so bad. Anywhere I tried to use it they immediately respond in English. Half of my words are confused by my recent saturation in German. "En café mit milche, s'il vous plait".

Our first stop of the new day was Ile de la Cite on our way to Notre-Dame. As we crossed over the Seine, we noticed a large group of police recruits in riot gear. We first assumed they were practicing. Then around the corner came a parade of protesting workers, apparently bent on marching across the same bridge we were on, which leads to the seat of government at Palais de Justice near Ste.Chapelle. The police blocked the street preventing any further movement, thus turning the protest, apparently a labour group, east along the Seine.

We calmly watched, took pictures then made our way on to Notre-Dame. This is one of the great structures of the world that took over 200 years to complete. (And you thought two years to build a house was long!) The architectural immensity and grandeur of this holy structure is only surpassed by the sense of profound history contained within. We took our tour around, gazing upward at the soaring walls and high vaults, were amazed by the statues and stained glass while taking opportunity to visit shrines to both well-known and obscure saints. A dab of holy water on our foreheads may have given us just the blessing needed for a busy day in Paris. Outside the rain had begun again. We took refuge from the rain at the near-by Hotel Dieu, "God's Hotel," which is a hospital. We used the time to use the toilette and orient ourselves for the next adventure.

We next boarded a commuter train that took us out to the Castle Versailles. This was a spectacle of grandeur beyond comprehension. If you thought you had an idea of what "thinking big and grandiose" might be, this place clearly surpasses it. It is beyond what I have previously defined as awesome. Built by Louis the XIV, who called himself the Sun King, the sprawling chateau is larger than the entire town of Elk. Room after room of guilded, vaulted rooms, cut marble, with many portraits and sculptures of historic men and women of France. The huge paintings in the Hall of Battles are a monument to France's military history. The gardens sprawl on for what seems like miles in all directions. Little wonder that this kind of opulent display admidst the starvation of the masses lead to the execution of Louis the XVI and Marie-Antoinette.

Near the train station there was a little Mexican restaurant that we found to be quite good despite the remoteness from Mexico.

Upon our return to the city, we emerged from our underground train at the Tour Eiffel. We approached the tower from along the Seine where we again observed the flooding that has most of the dock areas underwater.

We paid the 65FF to ride the elevator clear to the top which was well worth it. We could see all over Paris. The weather was quite clear in between rain showers. The mixture of clouds and bright sun enhanced the view greatly. A rain shower could be seen approaching but it passed before long. We found a small restaurant not far from there where we dined and tried to find out if the Louvre was open that night. We had read in the newspaper that the Louvre had been closed for four days because of a strike. It began to be so late that we made our way back to the hotel for the night.

Friday morning dawned with mostly clear skies. After our hotel breakfast we walked to the Louvre which took us through back streets by a small bakery where we bought sandwiches, past an old church called St. Eustache, through courtyards with fountains and sculptures and to the entrance of the Louvre. This is another Paris edifice of grand proportions. We entered through Architect I.M. Pei's glass pyramid. We managed to retain the girls' attention span for long enough to see the Mona Lisa and a take a tour of classic Renaissance canvasses. We saw many by the great ones, Titian, Raphael, etc. Too much classic art was not palatable to our young travelers. I heard an alarm ringing only to find that one of own little angels had tripped an electric eye trying to get a closer look at a 15th century masterpiece! We made our way out to the Jardin des Tuleries to find a bench on which to eat our sandwiches.

Out onto the streets again, we decided to walk along the flooded Seine towards the Sorbonne and the area where book stores and students abound. We found a little café where we had coffee and ice cream. The students were in abundance, chattering away in animated French. Our girls had real French Vanilla which is unlike anything I've tasted in the U.S. After a final stroll around the area with some stops at stores to spend the last of our French francs, we boarded the Metro bound towards the train station.

Arriving early at the train station we noticed an inordinate number of people seemed to be just waiting. We found a spot to wait because we were over an hour early for our train. After awhile, we got the word that there was a strike on and that most trains had been canceled. Ours was one of the very few that was not canceled. We had been waiting to hear what track our train was on, but Rosi got the idea we should figure it out right away. We found our train, car, compartment and seat numbers and settled in, constantly seeking to verify that we were indeed on the right train. All of these early moves proved to be very wise, because before long, a stream of hurried people descended on our train. Before we departed, every seat, isle and even the bathrooms were filled with desperate travelers, all crowded on one of the very few trains to leave Paris that day.

The train was so loaded with people that the cars swayed heavily and something seemed to be scraping underneath like the carriage was contacting the steel wheels. Serena needed to use the bathroom which was at first impossible. Eventually, people started working together to help others to move about that needed to. Before long we approached the first station and many of the travelers departed.

We reached Saarbrucken somewhat late, but were able to have a late meal and find the trolley and later the bus to Heusweiler and home. We awoke Opa near midnight to open the door. We all found our beds a welcome sight.

We had a memorable trip. Paris has many wonders, but there is also danger lurking. The traffic is very dangerous. People drive like they are late to their own funeral. Crossing streets meant we had to be on full alert. In the Métro, certain situations could be a problem. We entered a crowded train at one point only to find a dark looking man leaping onto the outside after it started rolling and forcing the doors open. The scoundrel ended up directly next to me. I soon was aware of his slimy finger entering my pocket. My hand met his and I turned my gaze towards him, though focused away. It turned out mine was not the only pocket attempted that ride, although nothing was taken. After that we avoided over-crowded train cars and kept a sharp eye out for scoundrels.

The Parisians are generally in a giant hurry, like they've had too much coffee. If you get in their way, which was a normal condition for us, they become exasperated. Parisians are notably well dressed (some anyway). We tried to observe what was "hip" and stylish. I found it interesting that such a great cross-section used the Metro. We got a great look at Parisian life.

Despite the challenges, we had a great and memorable visit. The weather cooperated, with well-timed rain showers. We seemed to have very good luck wherever we went. Seeing Paris on foot and by Metro gives one an intimate view and feel for the place and the people. We came home to Heusweiler with tired feet and full of new memories.

 

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